Rangiroa, Archipel des Tuamotu

Greetings from Rangiroa,

Since my last letter I have spent some time in Baie de Taiohae, Nuka Hiva, visited Baie de Taioa on the same island and sailed to Rangiroa in the Archipel des Tuamotu. I am very much enjoying myself but this whole way of living is definitely taking some getting used to. It is unfortunate that I am in a hurry to get to Tahiti as I have left so much unexplored but it is very worth it as it will enable me to spend as much time with Evan and Chloe in the Society Islands as possible. Five weeks should be a good amount of time for us to properly experience the Societies, some short ocean passages and the cruising lifestyle.

Once again I would like to thank everybody for their replies, please keep them coming. I tried to respond personally to some and I apologise to those I missed. Currently I am typing this in word and will later when I find a wireless connection send it. In order to check my e-mail a couple days ago I walked about 2 miles until I hailed a cab, $7 for a 2 minute ride. I noticed a cyber cafe and walked back to it, $21 for 1.5hrs of internet time and $14 for 2 beers, probably could have used half the time except it was on a French keyboard and I was waging a small war against an army of mosquitoes which basically made the beers a necessity. On the up-side you can smoke in the cafe and the owner was more than happy to give me a ride back to my dinghy free of charge. All said was not that long ago that I would have been buying stamps.

Baie de Taiohae is the commerce centre of the Marquesas and was an enjoyable place to spend just over a week. The town at the bay actually reminded of Pender Island as far as size and amenities goes. A short dinghy ride to a concrete pier brought me ashore; I have yet to see a marina, or a dock that goes up and down with the tide. There is only about 4 feet of tide in this part of the world but the bay definitely had the swell from the ocean making for some interesting landing parties. The locals fished from the concrete quay and there was a popular outdoor cafe that seemed to always be open. At pretty much any point I could find cruisers to talk to eating or just hanging out here. Prices were relatively cheap, a plate of fries with steak, (sorry excuse for steak) or sashimi was $6 and a can of coke $3. The owner brought us out a dish of shark in coconut milk sauce, raw of course, it was delicious and we weren’t supposed to tell anybody for some reason. A post office, police station, couple small stores and a grocery all within ten minutes walking distance pretty much made up the town. The dock where the supply ship lands and the gas station is located was about a 25 minute walk away. Most cruisers complained about the prices but they were coming from Panama where a can of beer costs $0.60. You can buy Hinano Beer, Tahitian, or Hienekin at around $3.50 a can or $6 in a restaurant, Tahitian Rum is around $30 a bottle, comparable to Canada but a bottle of imported liquor was ridiculous $50 - $100. Probably should have paid more attention to the prices of food, box of Fruit Loops was $12, not that I bought it. I spent most of my time talking to cruisers which was pleasant after 37 days at sea other than that I took a short hike to a lookout over the bay to take some pictures and basically relaxed. Swimming was not at advisable unless you tied a barrel to yourself to appear larger to the sharks, I didn’t bother.

About 3.5miles south southwest of Baie de Taiohae is Baie de Taioa, highly recommended to me by many cruisers and now highly recommended by myself to anybody. The bay was smaller and much more protected which was a nice change from the constant swell in Baie de Taiohae which was similar to being anchored in Otter Bay with a constant ferry wash. At one end of the bay was a sandy beach with sometimes a few cows or horses depending on the day I suppose. Around a point was the small village of Hakaui in the most amazing valley. A small river flows out of the valley and I was able to dinghy a ways up it to fill my water jugs with uncontaminated water. Rowing up the river under the coconut trees was surreal and as I often do I laughed and said to myself “look where you are Johnny.” After I filled up my water jugs I headed back to the boat but noticed the surf had increased a fair bit, interesting. I am not too proud to say I was thrown from my dinghy, well maybe I jumped a bit to ensure the dinghy didn’t tip, either way the dinghy didn’t tip saving my outboard and the sharks don’t get that close to shore so all was well. The next day I set off to hike up the valley to, apparently, the third highest waterfall in the world. I opted for the beach landing and set off with my camera, water bottle and some snacks. The first part of the hike took me across the river and through the village. There is no road to this village and the people live a more traditional life although they sure liked their gas powered weed eater. The homes where simple and the yards amazing with all kinds of fruit trees and flowers. A friendly wave and smiles were exchanged with the locals. The trail up the valley was unbelievable, so many trees and plants I have never seen before. There were many stone walls and foundations from the ancient civilizations long since wiped out by the European gift of smallpox, at least now under French rule to make up for it baguettes and French fries are readily available. As I got closer to the waterfall the trees lessened and I could see the towering cliffs on both sides. The waterfall itself as I had been warned could not really be seen from the point right underneath it but the pool it flowed into and the lush green valley was beautiful. I enjoy being a solo sailor but it is at places like this that one feels a little lonely as the beauty really needs to be shared to be properly appreciated, I began counting down the days until Evan and Chloe and arrive.

My plan was to leave the next day but being a little tired from my big 3 hour hike and perhaps reluctant to leave the bay I decided to stay another day even though I had already stowed my dinghy which confined me to the boat. Fortune favours the lazy? Godspeed, the 80ft ketch I told you about arrived and as my friend Ted was dinghying the owners Andrew and Paloma to shore to do the hike they stopped by and invited me over for dinner. I politely declined, like hell I did. I said yes please but you will have to pick me up, no problem. I made a pasta salad to bring and packed up some ginger cookies I had baked and took a shower. After getting picked up Ted gave me the tour of Godspeed and... wow. Easily the biggest boat I have been on and absolutely beautiful. The owner’s cabin and dressing room was surely bigger than the whole interior of my boat and the carbon fibre mizzen mast probably worth twice as much as modest Messalina. The engine room was impressive with its 150 or so hp Yahnmar, diesel generator, two water makers and full dive compressor. Ted had his own cabin with head and shower. We had a wonderful dinner and drank a few beers on the poop deck while looking at the stars. Before I headed back Andrew told me what marina he was staying at in Tahiti and to be sure to look him up. Ted gave me a lift back to my boat and thanked me for coming by, it must be strange to be 24 years old and work as a captain, he is technically the boss of his boss, a very successful man and his very expensive boat, that is a lot of responsibility.

Interestingly I was feeling ready to go back to sea; perhaps it was the fact that my next destination was only 570nm away. I was counting on 5 days, a much easier mental preparation than 35-60. Godspeed had given me weather reports that suggested it was going to blow and blow it did. I made the passage in pretty much exactly 4 days for an average of 6 knots under double reefed main and staysail with the wind just aft of the beam. Connie and Rick on Rhino a Westsail 32, gorgeous boat, tan bark sails and everything did it in 5-1/2 days, blog at www.rhinocruising.com if you’re interested. An Australian couple with kids who left the same time as me described it as the worst weather ever. This has confirmed my suspicion that I have for the most part experienced a fair amount of wind and weather and have yet to experience the bliss of trade wind sailing. This is fine with me because it was a very uncomfortable ride and it is nice to know it shouldn’t always be like that. My arrival at Rangoria was not without excitement. There was much talk about the passes into the atolls and the dangers to be had. I was a little nervous and although I am used to tidal passes and strong currents there is no tide book available here to give daily explanations to the minute. My plan was to wait outside and radio for information from a boat already anchored. My first response came from a cruise ship who said he would be transiting the pass in 20 minutes and I told him I would wait. My second response suggested I use the other pass about 8 miles northwest as it is usually clear and not to worry about the breakers on either side. Giddy up. I transited the pass no problem and was feeling quite content until I notice breakers in front of me inside the atoll and not one sailboat around. WTF! The water was getting shallower and I could see the sandy bottom and coral heads I motored into the breakers and could not make any way as they would just push me back. The waves were big enough that I was a little worried about turning around in fear of broaching or smashing me into a coral head. I calmly looked ashore and decided I could swim that distance then proceeded to turn around at a break in the waves to head to calmer waters to think. I really did not know what to do. The cruising guide suggested there was an anchorage at both passes but I could not see one at this pass in this wind and chop. I motored in circles tried the radio and had consigned myself to the idea of leaving and heading to Tahiti. I really did not want to as I wanted desperately to experience an atoll and perhaps have a cold beer after my rough ride so I did a couple more circles when on the radio came the same voice asking if I was OK, I responded but he could not here me over and over again, I asked if anybody copied my radio and another yacht did. Finally he copied and told me that I needed to get through the breakers and it would calm down a little further in. I tried again this time a little closer to shore and managed to get through going .5-1.5knots. The water deepened to around 60ft and I motored into very strong head winds back to the first pass where the anchorage was. It was about a 4hour detour which I would have much preferred to just wait for slack at the first pass. The lesson here would be to find out when slack is and not rely on other people.

My hectic entrance was well worth it and I will tell you all I can about Rangoria in my next letter and the passage to Tahiti. It is getting late and I have a busy day tomorrow, so to speak. I will rent a bicycle and ride to the village at the other pass where I should be able to purchase some gas for my dinghy and get some internet time to send this e-mail. I hope you enjoy the attached photographs and please don’t stop replying, I really look forward to checking my e-mail when I can and the more the merrier, pictures are great as well.

Cheers,

Jonathan