Black Sand Beach, Tanna Island

After, I think it was 4 nights in Port Lenakel, we were ready to leave, very ready. We got the boat ready the night before and the plan was to leave early and see if we could hug the coast around the north end of the island and sneak into Port Resolution to get access to the so far elusive volcano. After everything I had heard from various friends who had visited Tanna missing the volcano wasn’t really an option. Just as we were leaving another sailboat was coming in and we spoke briefly on the radio, they were in the same position, checking in to customs and wanting to go to Port Resolution, they had come in from the north so I asked if there were any protected anchorages to hide out in and he said there was a shallow bay on the northwest corner. I told him what I could about checking in and we were on our way.

We briefly started going around the south end of the island but in no time the waves were steep and we were barely making any way into the wind so we turned around and headed north. We hugged the coast and once in the lee of the island had a very pleasant sail with beautiful scenery and the occasional hoots from children playing along the coast. We sailed by the bay the other boat had told us about and it looked like an OK anchorage. As soon as we came out of the lee of the island and were once again heading into the wind it was clear we wouldn’t make Port Resolution before dark which would mean a very uncomfortable sail bashing into seas and waiting offshore overnight, no thanks. Once again we turned around and headed for what turned out to be called Black Sand Beach.

When we arrived the red sailboat we had seen that morning was already there. Once again we spoke on the radio and they had the same experience trying to go around the south end of the island. Just so you don’t think I am a total pussy, they had a 48’ sailboat and were prepared to motorsail so they could point a little higher and still bailed. In the end we were very lucky to meet the Schellens family, Anthony, Luisa and their three daughters, Amber, Dusty and Beatrix plus crew member Decklan. We had a great evening together hanging out on Tangaroa and I was very thankful to go spearfishing with some experienced fish hunters. The spearfishing wasn’t very good, Anthony got a coral trout that fed his family but for me I was just stoked to get out with some guys who knew what they were doing.

The Schellens were very determined to see the volcano as well and we were more than happy to split transport costs if we could find some. Anthony had met someone on shore who had mentioned there was somebody in the village with a 4x4 and was going to set out to try and find him. Stay tuned, the next post will be about the elusive volcano and then I will almost be caught up.